The churches of northeastern France are stunning in scale, in the detail of their woodwork, in the warm colors of their stained-glass windows. But it’s the pipe organs that really take my breath away. They’re huge. And we keep walking into these churches just as someone starts to play. Amazing.
Three times in two weeks now we’ve heard pipe organs fill empty churches. Once it was planned, a gift to us from the president of a textile company, a man with whom I spent the day. The other two were pure serendipity. No sooner did we walk into La Cathedrale Saint-Pierre in Annecy, constructed from 1535 to 1538, when the organist began to play. We looked up at an organ held up by Atlas, or rather two of him. Most unusual.
But the music! We sat without budging for 15, then 20 minutes. Another memory to carry home in 10 days. It will be hard to leave this most enchanting land.